Primitive Archery

My humble experience....

 

I have been making bows and arrows since I was a kid! Quite normal if I was a boy, but, as a girl this raised a few eyebrows! I tried to 'grow out' of it, but, recently I went back to it.

 

I am not an expert in primitive archery, a very avid enthusiast I would say. I have never got really good at making the equipment or using it.

 

I would like to share my most recent basic experience...

 

I had been looking for a lovely bit of yew for years. I came across some on eBay in the shape of a lovely long thick sucker branch. I received it in the post and looked at it. It did look as though the grain had grown twisted but I persevered. I got an expert to split it and our worst fears were realised... It is no good for making a bow. It has grown in almost a 180 degree twist! So it was back to the wood I have all around me... Hazel.....

 

I sometimes have a bit seasoning in the garden and surveyed what I had. One bit looked suitable. Hazel is best ustilized in this manner by making a flat bow. So that is what I did. I do not use power tools as I am a bit of a wimp. Also I feel as though it is cheating for me. So out with the knife, surforms and files. I had forgotten how much work it is.

 

After getting the basic shape I took it to a bit of heat to straighten up the worst bits. I have used my own made hemp string.

 

Well here it is....

Unstrung.

 

 

I may need to do some more work on it.

 

A very useable result. I would estimate a 30-40 lb draw weight. I do not know how long it will last. I will make more later in the year if I can secure more wood.

 

My own hemp string.

Hand woven decoration using my own spun wool and flax. An Amazon Parrot feather added for fun.

 

There was an old American Indian saying...

 

'Making the bow is easy, making the arrows is a whole heap of trouble!'

 

The arrows are also made by me. Hazel again. I try to keep a supply of hazel shafts seasoning around the place.

Seasoning shafts

 

It is good to tie the shafts all together whilst seasoning as this prevents too much warping whilst they are drying out. All tied up using my own hemp and flax string. This will ease the later job of straightening them. I sometimes take the bark off before lying them down and sometimes I do not. It just depends on what mood I am in.

Once seasoned the next job would be to take the bark off if I have not already. Then straightening them. Gently heating them over the hob in my case trying not to burn them but get them too hot to touch. Heat the area you wish to straighten. When it is hot enough bend it straight and hold it there until it cools. Keep doing this until when you look directly down the shaft it is as straight as a ruler. You may find there are more kinks and bends than you realise. A twig can look very straight until you look down it. It can have the ability to bend in more than one direction at once too. It takes a bit of practise, like a lot of these skills, but it is worth trying. Once you have a nice straight shaft it is very satisfying.

Next job would be for me to put in the finger grip.

 

I taper the arrow like I have seen on arrows from the Amazon.

 

Then I like to fletch it. I have a few Buzzard feathers around So I thought I might use them. These I found quite difficult to split as they do not have the long dipped ridge in the quill like turkey and goose feathers. This ridge gives the feather quill strength so the bird can take off from the ground. If the feather has come from a bird that spends most of it's time in the air they it do not need this ridge. So a lot of ground birds will have it. Splitting feathers is tricky. I use my knife making sure it is very sharp and trying to keep a steady hand constantly pressing against a surface and then moving the knife up the feather a little more then pressing again.

 

I like to make my arrows long, again I am influenced by the Amazon. They are easier to find in the undergrowth from my experience, but it also means, so I have heard, the arrows have a better stabilising effect in flight. For this reason I use just two fletchings on these arrows. For the shorter arrows I use three. Use only the feathers from the same wing. The feather will curl in one direction and the arrow will spin in flight. This is what stabilises it's flight.

Using two flights is much easier than using three. I use waxed linen sewing thread, splitting the fronds gently with my awl as I rotate the shaft. I start mine from the front of the feather. It seems I am unusual there. The Amazon people start their flething from the back of the arrow/feather. I will give this a try to see if it has any advantages. You can also glue the feather in place first if you wish. I do not. There are all sorts of manufactured and home made jigs you can get to make the fletching easier. I tie my fletching temporarily to the shaft removing the temporary fixing when It is convenient.

You can trim the feather into a shape. I like to keep mine basic. I like large flights as they are more aesthetic. But, of course this makes the arrow fly more slowly over a shorter distance. Seeing as I am only target shooting over short distances in the woods it does not bother me.

 

Top and bottom, Buzzard. Middle, barred turkey.

 

You can then insert the knock with a small file. Be sure when you do this the positioning of the arrow on the string does not make the feather have to pass the wood hand grip of the bow as this can make the arrow fly wild. You may also want to position it so the flight does not pass too directly over your hand to avoid burns. I make a U shaped knock as that fits my string nicely.

 

Then the pointy end.

I have made some antler points by sawing off flat bits of antler then just working them into the desired shape. Finding a flat enough bit that is the right size on an antler is a job in it's self! I am not a flint knapper, if I was that would be what I would do. I also have a supply of metal arrow heads I have kept over the years. But, I do want to keep the arrows all natural sometimes. Then you have to either saw or file a notch in the arrow to take the point. This can be fiddly but a good fit does help. You can glue it in place using pine pitch and charcoal or animal glue. I find soaking sinew in water and binding it tight is enough.

 

Antler arrow heads bound with sinew.

I do also make arrow heads from hard wood and bind them in the same way, but these are not as durable. Antler does become more carve-able if hot. Bear in mind that heating does also make antler more brittle as the heat breaks down the collagen in the antler. But, the pithy inside does become an instant glue with boiling.

I keep the antler shaving to make glue. I try to waste as little as possible, like our ancestors. Knowing the uses of many things means more can be ustilized with the right knowledge.

 

The finished arrows will  have a tendency to bend. They will need constant attention to keep them straight. Just take a look down them before you plan to take them out and use them and either cool straighten or heat straighten as required.